L’Aube à table: an invitation to pleasure.
Authenticity, quality and conviviality on the menu
Both rustic and refined, Aube’s cuisine is based on quality local specialties and products – delicious, quite simply.
Champagne, Rosé des Riceys and autumn truffles take center stage, along with Prunelle de Troyes. Andouillette de Troyes, Chaource cheese, sauerkraut cabbage, mushrooms, Pays d’Othe cider and Agneau de l’Aube take the lion’s share of the spotlight, for a cuisine that’s a little “canaille” – with a traditional emphasis on charcuterie and local cheeses.
The result is delicious combinations: perfect matches, simple and/or innovative, that you can create at home – or discover in a restaurant. After all, there’s no shortage of good restaurants in town and in the country.
More than ever, the mood here is one of conviviality, meetings with producers, short supply chains and gourmet feasts.
Cellar tasting: champagnes, fine wines, spirits… but also cider from the Pays d’Othe, beers and non-alcoholic beverages.
Champagnes (AOC-Appellation d’origine contrôlée).
Once you’re in the Aube region, you’ll quickly realize that we can’t talk about “the” champagne, but rather “the” champagnes.
Blanc de blancs, Blanc de noirs, Rosé de saignée (from maceration), Zéro dosé (zero sugar), Brut, Extra brut… so many lovely promises! A blended wine strictly controlled by its AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée), champagne is plural… but always subtle and refined.
Wherever you are in Aube, the vineyards are never far away.Why not go directly to the producers in Côte des Bar (to the south), Montgueux (the hill overlooking Troyes) or Villenauxe-la-Grande (to the north). There, you’ll learn all about the grape varieties used (chardonnay, pinot noir, meunier, etc.), techniques and terroirs.
After that, it’s a question of taste, desire and food. Champagne goes with everything, from aperitifs and desserts to meats and charcuterie. A charcuterie, for example, will go very well with a powerful, full-bodied Blanc de Noirs (100% pinot noir, the dominant grape variety in this southern Champagne region).
And let’s not forget cooking with champagne, whose delicate bouquet complements sauces, marinades, braisages and other deglazings. Fish and poultry go wonderfully well with this noble ally.
Rosé des Riceys (AOC)
A still wine, Rosé des Riceys offers singular aromatic notes: kirsch, candied fruit, bergamot, raspberry, violet… Produced in Champagne appellation lands, it owes its specificity to its grape variety (pinot noir, typical of the area) and to a delicate tank fermentation. As rare as it is racy, it is only produced if the year permits, and if the wine passes the tasting test.
Louis XIV is said to have been a great fan of this wine, with its ever-changing deep pink, sometimes almost red, color. He is said to have discovered it through contact with craftsmen from Les Riceys, during the construction of the Château de Versailles. A wine of maceration, Rosé des Riceys requires a special know-how perpetuated by a handful of passionate winemakers.
Coteaux – champenois (AOC)
Red or white, these still (not sparkling) wines make up the 3rd AOC of the village of Les Riceys. Like Rosé des Riceys, Coteaux-Champenois come from Champagne Appellation land. Hitherto confidential, their production has been revived by a handful of winegrowers, each bringing their own personality to the table. Yet more unique beverages to discover!
Les Riceys, the village with 3 appellations, crowned “Remarkable Taste Site”.
What an amazing town Les Riceys is! Comprising 3 villages and 3 churches, it’s the largest Champagne terroir, covering over 850 hectares. It is the only one to benefit from 3 AOC – Appellations d’origine contrôlée (Champagne, Rosé des Riceys and Coteaux-Champenois). Since 2017, it is also the only one in Champagne to have been awarded the “Remarkable Taste Site” label.
Prunelle de Troyes
As an after-dinner drink, Prunelle de Troyes seduces with both its power and sweetness. While almond aromas dominate, fine palates will also detect notes of orange, candied fruit, vanilla and praline.
Unchanged since 1840, the recipe for Prunelle de Troyes is jealously guarded. We do know, however, that it is made from sloe pits crushed in alcohol and guaranteed natural ingredients.It continues to be distilled in a wood-fired still dating from 1856, inthe Cellier Saint-Pierre at the foot of Troyes cathedral.
Pays d’Othe cider and apple juice
Its “flinty” taste perfectly matches the character of its native Pays d’Othe… a small region west of Troyes, where flint outcrops. Pays d’Othe cider can be enjoyed on its own, or accompanied by blackcurrant or ginger syrup, for example. It also goes well with cocktails, such as Soupe othéenne (cider, Pulco blood orange, triple sec or Cointreau).
This dry, straightforward, fruity and tart cider is also appreciated in the kitchen.
Supported by a handful of young producers following in the ancestral tradition, Pays d’Othe cider is determined to win PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) recognition… as is Pays d’Othe apple juice, tart and naturally sweet.
Pays d’Othe cider is made from a dozen varieties of apples, grated and pressed – such as Avrolles, Nez-de-chat and Nez plat. Put into vats and racked, the juice ferments for many months.
Craft beers
A land of barley and malt, Aube has recently seen a boom in craft beers. A dozen units have been created… starting with pioneer Mahaut d’Arras, which has been brewing since 2013 in Saint Martin-de-Bossenay.
The real andouillette de Troyes
Renowned for its creamy texture, andouillette de Troyes is equally at home cold (sliced as an aperitif) or hot (grilled, pan-fried, poached or in sauce).
Cooked, it goes perfectly with Chaource cheese or champagne. Accompanied by mashed potatoes or peas, it’s a purely convivial dish to share with family, friends or brasseries.
Made from pork (strips of chowder and stomach), andouillette gains its flavor from several hours’ cooking in court-bouillon. A handful of passionate craftsmen still prepare it by hand (pulled with string) in its “natural gut dress”. A brotherhood of gourmets in love with His Majesty the andouillette meets under the banner AAAAA (Association amicale d’amateurs d’andouillettes authentiques).
Cheeses from Chaource, Soumaintrain and Mussy: a creamy platter that smells just like the countryside!
Chaource (PDO – Protected Designation of Origin)
With its high white cylinder, supple yet firm, it’s the king of the plateau. Perfectly matured, Chaource (named after a village in southern Aube) offers a surprising contrast. Beneath its creamy exterior lies a finely textured, slightly grainy heart. Made from cow’s milk, Chaource is a soft cheese with a bloomy rind. Subtle scents of mushrooms, even hazelnuts, emanate from this delicious plump cheese with a creamy taste. This makes Chaource an invaluable ally in the kitchen , with delicious combinations of fresh mushrooms and andouillette de Troyes (in tarts and gratins), accompanied by our local wines (Rosé des Riceys, Coteaux champenois and champagne).
Soumaintrain (PGI – Protected Geographical Indication)
Produced on the borders of Aube and Burgundy, Soumaintrain (dairy or farmhouse) is another soft cheese. Ivory-white, its paste is both slightly grainy and delicately melting. Always slightly moist, its “washed” rind oscillates between pale yellow and ochre.
Mussy, Ervy, Champ-sur-Barse, Marbré, Val et bouchon d’Armance, Lys de Champagne…
Cow’s milk cheeses are pure traditional products, bearing the name of the small region where they were born. Whether farmhouse or dairy, they perpetuate the know-how of yesteryear, while offering innovative new ranges. And it’s a treat to discover the places where they are made: cheese dairies and farms in Chaource, Ervy-le-Châtel (Gaec des Tourelles), Auxon, Champ-sur-Barse (Ferme du Champ-Roy and Ferme de la Marque), Mesnil-saint-Loup, etc.
And the little goats?
In recent years, the number of goat farms in the Aube region has multiplied, led by bold young entrepreneurs keen to offer innovative, quality products. These include Mademoiselle chèvre in Coussegrey (cheeses, yoghurts and even ice creams with the astonishing scents of orange blossom, rose and goat’s milk), Manon Vérité in Creney-près-Troyes, les chèvreries d’Arrelles, Beauvoir-sur-Sarce, and more.
Other Aube specialities and basic products
Sauerkraut cabbage
Aube is the 2nd largest producer of sauerkraut in France. In addition to the traditional sauerkraut with charcuterie (still a must for autumn-winter…), sauerkraut lends flavor to most meats, poultry and even fish and shellfish. Very easy to cook, since it’s available already cooked, it’s the perfect accompaniment to guinea fowl, goose or duck confit, or even salmon. La choucrouterie Laurent, in Blignicourt, markets a “label rouge” sauerkraut that is cooked in contact with ingredients such as champagne, cider or thistles. A convivial dish par excellence, sauerkraut attracts thousands of enthusiasts to the fabulous and gargantuan Brienne-le-Château sauerkraut festival every year in mid-September.
Agneau de l’Aube (AA)
A registered trademark, Agneau de l’Aube (AA) has been a fixture on the department’s shelves since 1994. Established by the breeders, its quality charter guarantees consumers a lamb born and raised on the original Aube farm. Aged 120 days on average (including a minimum of 60 days with its mother), brass lamb comes from a mother who is necessarily fed in the traditional way, with cereals and fodder. A local product, Agneau de l’Aube suffers neither the fatigue nor the stress of long journeys. The meat is pink, tender and tasty. The AA initials on the carcasses are a guarantee of traceability, well ahead of its time.
Autumn Truffle
In Aube, the “black diamond” has been on a roll since the creation, in 2018, of AATA (Association auboise des truffes d’automne). While a production sector is taking shape in the Grand Est, Aube is banking on its “Marché aux truffes d’automne” (every December in Troyes) to raise awareness of the aromatic richness of this delicate Champagne truffle. From appetizers to desserts, local chefs concoct mouth-watering appetizer platters. It’s all about understanding just how much truffles can enhance a dish… even by simple contact (with pasta or eggs, for example).
Local products and short circuits: welcome to locavores!
Direct farm sales, automatic refrigerated crates, “click and collect” online purchasing, pick-your-own gardens (Rumilly-les-Vaudes, Mesnil-Sellières, Moussey…), producers’ stores, as well as traditional markets… wherever you are, in town or in the country, there’s no problem filling your basket with fresh, ripe, local produce.
Four associated producer stores have been set up in Troyes(Passion paysanne), St-Parres-aux-Tertres(Tendance fermière), Romilly-sur-Seine(Au panier de Sidonie) and Bar-sur-Aube(Ça M’botte). In Saint-Julien-les-villas (in the heart of the “Marques Avenue” factory outlets!), Ferme de la Diligence d’Aubeterre has opened a store with 24-hour access to refrigerated lockers. As is the case with all these new outlets, you’ll find much more than just your own products, which means you’ll be able to stock up. That doesn’t mean you can’t visit the markets of the Aube region, with their mouth-watering stalls: the pretty Halles Baltard in Troyes, the “belly of the Aube”, Aix-Villemaur-Pâlis and Chaource, the Jules-Guesde and Marots-Blanqui markets in Troyes, the Petit marché nature in the Forêt d’Orient…
Here you’ll find contact details for over 70 local producers, markets, pick-your-own gardens, farmers’ drives, producers’ stores… SEE THE MAP
Click & Collect networks : aube.mondrivefermier.fr / laruchequiditoui.fr / locavor.fr
Colleges in Aube: canteens supplied with local produce
French fries with local potatoes, local vegetables, meats, fruit juices and yoghurts made in Aube… Aube schoolchildren are well served! Thanks to the “Manger local” platform, their canteens can easily source quality local produce. Created and managed by the Département, this system facilitates exchanges between producers and school cooks. As a result, children can enjoy “home cooking that tastes good” (in the words of chef Pascal Labonde, from Ervy-le-Châtel secondary school). Colleges buy their food online. The Département centralizes their orders and then delivers them to the canteens, twice a week. It’s very practical, too, for producers: all they have to do is post the available products, then deliver to a single point in Troyes. It’s simple, innovative – and beneficial for everyone, starting with young people.
Gourmet events and tours: festive discoveries all year round
There are many ways to discover Aube’s gourmet products and specialities.
– Markets, tourist office stores and boutiques,
–Permanent tours: Champagne tourist trail, Othe and Armance flavors trail…
– Events:
Un dimanche à la campagne (April, open house at more than 40 Aube farms); La Route du champagne en fête (July); Champagne Day (October), Foire à la choucroute (September, Brienne-le-château), Foire aux oignons (October, Chavanges), Fête du cochon (August, Estissac); Marché aux truffes d’automne (December, Troyes), summer snacks and gourmet festivals in châteaux (château de Taisne, château de La Motte-Tilly)…
– Champagne vineyards: sparkling discoveries and tastings off the beaten track.
Winegrowers vie for ideas: discoveries on foot, by bike, segway, rosalie, hot-air balloon, plane, kayak, tractor, at night, on a picnic, in a cadole, in a bubble, and so on. Truffle and champagne outings, etc.
– Cellar tours (some fifty certified wineries)
– Happy brotherhoods: Saulte-bouchon (champagne) brotherhood, Prunelle de Troyes brotherhood, AAAAA (Association amicale d’amateurs d’andouillettes authentiques)…
Gastronomy, bistronomy and good humor: all the pleasures on the menu of Aube’s restaurants
It’s impossible (alas!) to list all the fine restaurants in Aube.
There are, of course, the 9 Michelin-starred restaurants listed here by Aube en Champagne tourisme: Auberge de Sainte-Maure, Bistrot du Pont (Pont-saint-Marie), Au vieux pressoir (Mesnil-saint-Père), Caffé Cosi and Les Crieurs de vin (Troyes), Le Garde-champêtre (Gyé-sur-Seine), Claire et Hugo (Sainte-Savine), Le quai de Champagne (Troyes).
Among the gourmet restaurants, two newcomers are La Gentilhommière (Saint-André-les-vergers), with its touch of southern cuisine from a young chef who has worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants, Octave (Troyes, newcomer to Gault et Millaut)…
On the subject of “short circuits”, we’d still like to mention a few symbols: Le Val Moret (Magnant), a pioneer in the promotion of local produce and a champion of autumn truffle menus; La Rosita and Le Bellevue (Nogent-sur-Seine), where chef Lionel Seret, a member of the “Au court circuit” association, strives to transcend local nuggets; Le Garde champêtre (Gyé-sur-Seine), a former train depot transformed into a gourmet loft directly connected to garden vegetables; Le Petit basson (Troyes), directly supplied with fresh produce from its Marcilly-le-Hayer garden.
The offer is extremely varied in and around Troyes, with beautiful terraces in old Troyes and around the town hall, including some, such as Chez Félix, Le Jardin and Le Rocher, which have the luxury of downtown gardens.
Around the lakes of the Forêt d’Orient, from small-scale catering to gourmet dining: in Mesnil-saint-Père(Le Belvédère, overlooking the port; Coeur de village, Au vieux Pressoir, l’Auberge du lac, etc.). In Port de Dienville(Le Bistrot nouveau, Le Bistrot du port…) and Géraudot(La pizza du lac) etc.
At Les Numbers Vins (Nogent-sur-Seine) and L’Union (Essoyes), “canaille” cuisine is the order of the day: a choice feast, with guaranteed conviviality, and a wine list to match.
Another fine bistronomic address: Le Cellier (Bar-sur-Aube) offers an astonishing setting, in a historic cellar that was the site of the 1911 Champagne Winegrowers’ Revolt… The Auberge du Cygne de la croix (Nogent-sur-Seine) is one of those venerable inns that we love.
The Aube region is also blessed with a long list of “good little country restaurants”…
And what about the kids? Special mention to Le Belvédère (Mesnil-saint-Père) with its glassed-in play area overlooking the lake.
In Troyes: Chez Axelle where you can draw, Aux oiseaux de passage with their games in the enclosed garden, Le Tablier with its local loupiot menu… Better than fast food, isn’t it?
Redaction: Aube en Champagne attractivité agency.